Sunrise at Monte Fitz Roy, Patagonia, Argentina

Two weeks. Two countries. Four days in the backcountry. And two very grateful hearts.

This trip had been sitting quietly on our bucket list for years. One of those far-off dreams that didn’t feel real until we were finally there, hiking beneath jagged peaks and drifting past ancient glaciers.

We’re sharing the details of our trip in hopes of inspiring your own adventure, or maybe helping you plan that dream trip that’s been sitting on your bucket list.

None of the links included are sponsored; they’re simply the places we stayed or places we visited and genuinely recommend based on our experience.

Days 1–2: Charleston, WV to Santiago, Chile

We left Charleston, West Virginia in the afternoon and flew CRW to ATL to Santiago on an overnight flight... because yes, we love squeezing every drop out of our vacation days. Once we landed, we hopped in a taxi to our hotel, feeling equal parts exhausted and excited (but mostly excited).

We used 25,000 Marriott Bonvoy points to stay at the AC Hotel by Marriott Santiago Costanera Center, snagged an early check-in at 9:30 a.m., scored a room upgrade, and were surprised with welcome treats later that evening. It was the perfect soft landing after a long journey.

That afternoon, we wandered through Cerro Santa Lucía, a lush, hilltop park tucked in the middle of the city.

Travel Tip: Wear sunscreen, comfortable shoes, and bring a bottle of water. Cerro Santa Lucía involves some stair climbing and can get hot mid-day. Also, carry a little cash (in Chilean pesos) if you need to use the public restrooms, as there’s usually a small fee.

After returning to our hotel, we cleaned up and toasted the start of our adventure with rooftop cocktails and dinner at Luna Bar. This restaurant and bar boasts fabulous city views and a telescope for star-gazing.

Day 3: Welcome to Puerto Natales

After a quick stopover in Santiago, we caught a LATAM flight south to Puerto Natales, the gateway to Torres del Paine National Park.

Once we landed, we grabbed a taxi and headed straight to our Airbnb, which turned out to be a perfect base. Located in a walkable part of Puerto Natales, it gave us easy access to the town’s cozy cafés, outdoor gear shops, and local eateries. Even better, our host offered to store our luggage while we hiked the W Trek, a huge logistical win.

We spent the rest of the day exploring the charming, compact town and soaking in the laid-back vibe.

Day 4: Torres del Paine Tour + W Trek Prep

Our day started early as we took a two-hour shuttle into Torres del Paine National Park for a private full-day tour. We explored lakes, waterfalls, and remote scenic overlooks we wouldn’t see on the W Trek.

Patagonia Tip: The weather changes fast... sometimes in a matter of minutes. Invest in quality rain gear (and boots) that can also handle strong winds. Layers are your best friend out there. Here’s a link to many of the items we used during our trip that kept us dry, warm, and comfortable on the trail.

That evening, we had an amazing dinner at Santolla and then returned back to our Airbnb to pack our gear and prepare for four days on the trail.

Day 5 – W Trek, Day 1
The W Trek: 4 Unforgettable Days

🚢 Shuttle to Hotel Lago Grey → Lago Grey Cruise → Refugio Paine Grande

We kicked off our W Trek adventure by leaving Puerto Natales on a 1 hour and 45 minute shuttle ride to Hotel Lago Grey, where we caught the Grey Glacier Navigation cruise that would take us deep into Torres del Paine and drop us off near Refugio Grey, the starting point of our trek.

Our first stop was the glacier viewpoint, followed by a steady climb to the 1st and 2nd suspension bridges, where we got a bird’s-eye view of the glacier stretching across the ice field.

After soaking in the views, we stopped at Refugio Grey along the way for a quick bite, burgers and a warm-up, before heading to Refugio Paine Grande.

The hike from Refugio Grey to Refugio Paine Grande is a breathtaking journey through windswept ridges and panoramic views of Glacier Grey and the brilliant turquoise waters of Lago Pehoé. With dramatic scenery around every bend, this stretch of the W Trek is both relatively gentle and endlessly photogenic.

We finally arrived at Refugio Paine Grande and instantly loved the vibe... laid-back, scenic, and full of trail energy. Of all the refugios we would visit, this one was our favorite. A hearty buffet and a little cocktail lounge upstairs made for a fun vibe.

Day 6 – W Trek, Day 2

Trail: Paine Grande → Camp Italiano → Mirador Francés & Británico → Refugio Cuernos

Departing Refugio Paine Grand on Day 2 of W Trek

We left Refugio Paine Grande after a long, rainy night in the tent. Wind gusts had rocked the tent most of the evening, so sleep was... minimal. Travel tips: bring earplugs for camping and order the box lunch from Paine Grande before you leave. The sandwich was huge, and included snacks: trail mix, banana chips, and chocolates, were perfect fuel for a long day. Our snacks lasted two days and saved us time and effort on the trail.

Still, we packed up early and hit the trail toward the French Valley, excited for what’s often considered one of the most beautiful (and longest) days on the W.

Along the way, we followed the edge of Lago Nordenskjold, with misty mountains towering above and occasional breaks in the clouds revealing snow-dusted peaks.

We stopped at Campamento Italiano to stash our heavy packs before taking on the out-and-back hike to Mirador Francés and Mirador Británico, widely known as one of the most scenic stretches of the W Trek.

The trail climbed steadily through lenga forest and boulder-strewn paths, eventually opening up to jaw-dropping views of hanging glaciers, steep granite walls, and a dramatic cirque of peaks that surround the French Valley. This section was challenging, but it delivered in every way.

After returning to Italiano to grab our packs, we continued on to Refugio Cuernos, where we camped in a unique elevated tent structure.

Dinner at the Refugio was hearty and satisfying, and the cozy dining room was a great place to warm up, dry out, and swap stories with fellow trekkers. This was also our first shower on the W Trek and it was delightful.

We called it an early night, happily exhausted.

Day 7 – W Trek, Day 3

After a beautiful sunrise at Refugio Cuernos, we packed up and returned back to the trail en route to Refugio Chileno, the closest overnight stop to Base Torres and our final campsite of the trek. The hike included steady climbs and plenty of scenic views along the way.

We arrived in the early afternoon, dropped our packs, grabbed a quick snack, and took advantage of the beautiful clear skies... not always guaranteed in Patagonia.

With the weather looking ideal, we decided to head up to Base Torres that same afternoon

The trail was steep but rewarding, winding through rocky terrain and ending at the iconic granite towers that give the park its name. We spent some time soaking in the views before making our way back down to Chileno for an early dinner and a very early bedtime... alarms set for 4:45 a.m.

Day 8 – W Trek, Day 4

We woke in the dark, packed up quickly, and made our final push back to Base Torres to catch the sunrise... and it did not disappoint. The towers lit up in glowing orange and pink as the first light hit the peaks. This moment didn't last very long, but it was absolutely breathtaking. It was, without question, one of the most magical moments of the trek and made every early step worth it.

After our sunrise hike to Base Torres, we made our way down to the Welcome Center near Hotel Las Torres, where we would catch the shuttle and bus combo back to Puerto Natales. While waiting for our shuttle at the Welcome Center, we enjoyed hot sandwiches from the Las Torres Food Truck. Travel tip: Cocktails are available inside the welcome center… and you’re going to want to celebrate this moment.

We caught the shuttle from the Welcome Center to the Amarga Entrance gate, then hopped on a bus back to Puerto Natales.

After picking up our stored gear from our previous Airbnb host, we checked in at Toore Patagonia, a hidden gem where the hostess went above and beyond to make sure we had everything we needed during our stay.

Days 9–13: Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina

We started our ninth day by catching a bus at the the Puerto Natales Bus Terminal (use busbud for tickets) for our eight-hour journey to El Chalten, Argentina, where we spent the next few days exploring Los Glaciares National Park, home to some of the most iconic views in all of Patagonia.

Our first stop was El Chaltén, a laid-back hiking town nestled in the shadow of the Fitz Roy range.

It’s known as Argentina’s trekking capital, and with good reason... you can walk straight from town to some of the most stunning trails in the region.

We hiked:

🏔️ Laguna de Los Tres: We started this iconic hike in the dark, headlamps guiding the way, to reach the Fitz Roy mirador by sunrise... and it was absolutely worth it. As the first light hit the peaks, Fitz Roy lit up in fiery orange and pink hues, a moment of pure magic.

The lighting was constantly changing as the sun rose.

From there, we continued on to complete the full Laguna de Los Tres hike, winding through forests, valleys, and rivers before making the final steep push to the lagoon. With Mount Fitz Roy rising sharply above turquoise waters, this view was spectacular.

Laguna Cerro Torre: A slightly easier trail, but equally beautiful. The path followed the river valley to a glacial lake framed by the jagged spire of Cerro Torre. It was quiet, moody, and breathtaking in its own way.

Chorrillo del Salto: an easy, scenic trail just outside El Chaltén. It’s less than 2 miles round-trip with minimal elevation gain, and totally worth it for the beautiful waterfall at the end.

We had some great meals in El Chaltén and found ourselves going back to a few favorites. La Esquina Chaltén was our go-to breakfast spot, so good we started two mornings there

La Cervecería Chaltén was cozy and welcoming, with great local beer, Pisco Sours, and hearty dinners we enjoyed twice. And for pizza lovers, Laborum served up delicious wood-fired pies that hit the spot after a day on the trail.

After soaking up the trails in El Chaltén, we caught a bus to El Calafate, a small town that serves as the gateway to the Perito Moreno Glacier.

We stayed at Mabra Suites and appreciated the modern amenities and the cozy coffeehouse attached. Our reservation included complimentary morning coffees and fresh croissants, a simple but lovely start to the day.

While in El Calafate, we joined a full-day tour with Chalten Travel that included a boat ride along the glacier’s towering face.

The scale of Perito Moreno is hard to describe until you’re standing next to it.

After wrapping up our time in El Calafate, Argentina, we took the long bus ride back to Puerto Natales, Chile, where we enjoyed a final dinner in town at Entre Pampa y Mar, an incredible meal to close out the trip.

We spent the night at The Veat, an effortlessly cool spot, where the warm hospitality, delicious breakfast, and morning coffee made for the perfect send-off.

The next morning, we began the long journey home: flying from Puerto Natales to Santiago, then on to Atlanta, and finally landing back in Charleston, West Virginia.

Now we’re home, soaking in the memories. Our bags are unpacked, for now, but our hearts are already dreaming about the next adventure.

Until next time, Patagonia. 💛

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