From misty lakes to high mountain passes, our 11-day alpine journey through Italy and Austria revealed the quiet beauty of the mountains.

Travel has a way of changing you in quiet, almost unnoticeable ways.

On this journey through Italy’s Dolomites and into Austria, the most lasting lessons didn’t come from postcard views but from the unexpected detours. The pivots we made and the way the mountains reminded us to slow down, have another espresso, and maybe one more cornetto.

We originally planned to begin our journey hiking in the Dolomites, but just before leaving the United States, the forecast shifted. Days of heavy rain were expected across Northern Italy. We were still within the window to adjust our reservations, so after some research we made a decision: start in Austria instead. The weather there looked a little brighter, the pace a little slower, and it felt like exactly the right call.

It ended up being one of the best choices we made.

Days 1–2: Arrival in Venice & Hallstatt in the Austrian Alps

Evangelical Church of Hallstatt, Hallstatt, Upper Austria, Austria

We departed from Charleston, West Virginia and after an easy connection through Atlanta and an overnight flight to Venice, we picked up our rental car from Avis and purchased an Austrian highway vignette at a nearby gas station, required for driving on Austria’s major roads.

By late afternoon, we reached Hallstatt, a postcard-perfect lakeside village surrounded by steep mountains and autumn mist. You cannot drive into the historic center of Hallstatt; the village is largely traffic-free for visitors. Designated parking areas are located on the outskirts, and during our visit, a free shuttle van ran every 30 minutes to bring travelers into town.

Our stay at Braugasthof Lobisser Gasthof was charming and quiet, with lake views and alpine character.

Braugasthof Lobisser Gasthof, Hallstatt, Upper Austria, Austria

Room with a view at Braugasthof Lobisser Gasthof in Hallstatt, Upper Austria, Austria.

We arrived just before 6:45 p.m., right as the kitchen was closing at 7:00 p.m. The kind hotel staff offered to keep the kitchen open for us, but we decided to drop our luggage in our room and take a short walk to explore the village first and ended up enjoying a casual evening meal from a small lakeside food stand serving warm sandwiches and crispy pommes frites.

Dusk in Hallstatt was pure magic, a beautiful scene unfolded as we meandered throughout the town.

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Breakfast the next morning featured a lovely spread of fresh breads, cheeses, fruit, and coffee, served in a cozy dining room.

*Breakfast at the Braugasthof Lobisser Gasthof in Hallstatt, Upper Austria, Austria*

Day 3: Scenic Drive Through the Austrian Alps to Mayrhofen

Leaving Hallstatt, we began our drive toward Mayrhofen, winding through alpine valleys and charming Austrian towns. The route was rich with natural wonders, and we made several scenic stops along the way:

Gollinger Wasserfall: Located just outside the village of Golling an der Salzach, this two-tiered waterfall is an easy, rewarding stop.

*Gollinger Wasserfall, Wasserfallstraße 23, 5440 Golling an der Salzach, Austria*

Lammerklamm Gorge: Near Scheffau am Tennengebirge, Lammerklamm features a stunning walkway carved through the narrow canyon.

*Lammerklamm Gorge, Scheffau 50, 5440 Scheffau am Tennengebirge, Austria*

Liechtensteinklamm: One of the deepest gorges in the Alps, with a dramatic spiral staircase and powerful waterfalls.

*Liechtensteinklamm, Liechtensteinklammstraße 123, 5600 St. Johann im Pongau, Austria*

Krimml Waterfalls: Located near the village of Krimml in the Hohe Tauern National Park, these are the highest waterfalls in Austria and among the tallest in Europe, cascading more than 1,200 feet (380 meters) in three dramatic tiers.

The scenic trail follows the falls upward with several viewpoints along the way, offering breathtaking photo opportunities and a refreshing mist in the air. Parking and entrance are well organized, and the short walk to the lower viewpoint makes it accessible for most visitors.

*Krimml Waterfalls is Located near the village of Krimml in the Hohe Tauern National Park*

By late afternoon, we arrived at Huber’s Boutique Hotel in Mayrhofen, where the staff warmly welcomed us and surprised us with an upgrade to a junior suite featuring a free-standing clawfoot tub, private balcony, and views of the alpine gardens.

*Junior Suite at Huber’s Boutique Hotel in* Mayrhofen, Tyrol, Austria

The staff provided us with local maps and suggested several alternate hikes in the region, noting that some lesser-known trails offered more rewarding views than the popular (and often crowded) Olpererhütte route, our planned hike for the following morning.

After checking in, we took a short walk through Mayrhofen as a light rain began to fall. The streets were calm, and the mountains were wrapped in a soft mist. Everything seemed to move at an easy pace.

We stopped for dinner at Goldkind, a modern farm-to-table restaurant in town. Inside, the space glowed warmly against the gray evening outside, the kind of cozy light that made the whole place feel inviting. We enjoyed a relaxed meal with cocktails while the rain continued outside, a simple and comfortable evening that felt perfectly in sync with the weather.

Traveler Notes:
• Driving time: About 3½ hours with stops

Days 4–5: Crossing Into Italy and Settling Into Val Gardena, Dolomites

We woke to steady rain and decided to take our one lazy morning of the trip. We skipped the hikes, lingered in our beautiful room, and then settled in for a long breakfast included with our stay. The spread was lovely: fresh breads, cheeses, fruit, made-to-order omelets and waffles, and strong coffee served in a bright dining room overlooking the garden and mist-covered mountains.

*Huber’s Boutique Hotel, Dornaustraße 612, 6290 Mayrhofen, Tyrol, Austria*

By the time we packed up, the rain was still falling, so we took it as a cue to slow down once more. The staff sent us off with a small jar of homemade jam, a sweet parting gift, and we began the drive south into Italy.

On the way to Val Gardena, we stopped in Ortisei, a picturesque alpine town of colorful facades, boutique shops, and cobblestone streets. It was the perfect introduction to Northern Italy.

*Flower-covered St. Antonius Footbridge in Ortisei, Italy, spanning the Rio Anna in the heart of Val Gardena*.

We wandered the town center for a bit, then settled in for our first pizza in Italy at Cascade, a cozy spot overlooking the river.

After a late lunch, we made the short drive to Santa Cristina and checked into our Airbnb. Our host greeted us on arrival, gave a quick tour, and collected the tourist tax of €2.50 per person per night in cash.

The location could not have been better. A coffee shop sat just across the street, a grocery and several restaurants were an easy walk, and L Fudlè was conveniently next door. Dinner there was so good we went back twice during our stay.

*Dining at L Fudlè Restaurant in Santa Cristina, Val Gardena, Italy*

The combination of mountain air, welcoming locals, and delicious food made Val Gardena feel like home almost immediately.

Day 6: Hiking the Seceda Ridgeline & Alpe di Siusi in the Dolomites

We were up early for one of the Dolomites’ most iconic views, the Seceda ridgeline. With croissants and coffee from the café across the street, we drove to Ortisei and boarded the Seceda lift, rising quickly above the valley toward the Odle peaks.

As we climbed, the landscape changed in real time, green meadows giving way to fresh snow that had fallen overnight. By the top, the ridge was blanketed in white and the trail felt like a winter dream. Watching the hillside shift from summer to winter in a few minutes was pure magic.

*Panoramic views of the Odle Peaks from the summit of the Seceda Ridgeline, Ortisei, Val Gardena, South Tyrol, Italy*

*Seceda Ridgeline, Ortisei, Val Gardena, South Tyrol, Italy*

Midway along the ridge, we stopped at Malga Pieralongia Alm-Schwaige, a rustic mountain hut with wide views and a quiet, welcoming feel. It quickly became one of my favorite rifugios of the trip.

Malga Pieralongia Alm-Schwaige in St. Christina – Val Gardena (South Tyrol), Italy

View from our table at Malga Pieralongia Alm-Schwaige in St. Christina – Val Gardena (South Tyrol), Italy

We enjoyed tasse kaffee, bread, cheese, and speck—a dry-cured, lightly smoked ham from South Tyrol. We shared the space (and our snacks) with a handful of other hikers, including a young Polish couple living in Germany. It was one of those rare travel moments where conversation, coffee, and scenery all aligned perfectly.

*An Alpaca grazing near a mountain farm on the Seceda ridgeline, Ortisei, Val Gardena, South Tyrol, Italy.*

Afterward, we continued hiking for another hour before descending via the Seceda lift back into Ortisei. From there, we walked across town and took the Mont Sëuc Lift to explore Alpe di Siusi, the largest high-altitude alpine meadow in Europe.

Mont Sëuc Lift in Ortisei, Val Gardena, South Tyrol, Italy — the gateway to Alpe di Siusi, Europe’s largest high-altitude alpine meadow.

*Rolling meadows of Alpe di Siusi in Val Gardena, South Tyrol, Italy.*

Stretching across nearly 23 square miles, this vast plateau sits above Val Gardena and offers some of the most iconic views in the Dolomites. In summer, its rolling pastures are dotted with wildflowers and grazing cows, and in autumn, the grass turns golden beneath the sharp limestone peaks of Sassolungo and Sciliar.

The contrast from the snow-covered ridgeline that morning was striking, with sunshine, green hills, and the quiet rhythm of mountain life unfolding around us.

Back at our Airbnb in Santa Cristina, we opened a bottle of local red wine on the balcony before heading next door for another excellent dinner at L Fudlè. Walking home under the moonlight, the village was still and peaceful, the air cold and clear, and it became one of those simple, grounding evenings that reminded us why we love to travel.

Day 7: Exploring the Friedrich August Trail, Sella Pass & Lago di Carezza, Dolomites

The next morning, we set out early for the Friedrich August Trail at Sella Pass, one of the Dolomites’ most beautiful ridge hikes. The 25-minute drive from Santa Cristina wound through mountain passes, each turn revealing grander views of the peaks ahead.

We parked near the trailhead at Passo Sella and started our hike along the ridgeline, passing between wide meadows and rocky overlooks with the Sassolungo massif rising dramatically above us. The trail connects several charming mountain huts, each with its own view and alpine character, and the entire route feels like a walk through a living postcard.

Our destination was Friedrich August Refugio, affectionately known by hikers as “The Yak Place.” True to its nickname, a few friendly yaks grazed lazily in the field outside the lodge — an unexpected and endearing sight high in the Dolomites.

*Rifugio Friedrich August, Località Col Rodella, Passo Sella, Canazei, 38031 Campitello di Fassa TN, Italy*

*Friedrich August Mountain Hut, Col Rodella area, Sella Pass, Canazei, 38031 Campitello di Fassa, Trentino, Italy*

Inside, the warmth was immediate with wooden tables, alpine décor, and the smell of fresh pastries and espresso filling the air. We were seated at a sunlit table by the window and took our time savoring both the food and the view. This was like being in storybook and I can’t recommend it enough.

Traveler Note: As of October 2025, Friedrich August Refugio is closed until early December. Check our Dolomite Digital Guide for re-opening info.

Afterward, we hiked down to the base of the Forcella Sassolungo lift, a unique cable car in the Dolomites known as the “coffin lift” because of its small, upright, two-person cabins.

Forcella Sassolungo lift at Passo Sella, Val Gardena, South Tyrol, Italy.

The lift never stops, so riders have to hop on and off while it’s still moving, which adds to the thrill. It travels from Passo Sella up to the Forcella Sassolungo, a high mountain saddle beneath the towering Sassolungo peak, and serves as a popular starting point for alpine hikes with sweeping views across the Dolomites.

That September day was cold and windy, with patches of ice clinging to the rocks near the top. Still, the views were absolutely worth it. From the summit, we could see the jagged peaks of the Dolomites stretching endlessly in every direction, clouds sweeping dramatically across the ridgeline.

*Forcella Sassolungo at Passo Sella, Val Gardena, South Tyrol, Italy*

We stayed about forty-five minutes, taking in the rugged beauty and vast mountain vistas, before hopping back into the moving lift to descend and end our hike.

The afternoon brought us to Lago di Carezza (Karersee), where the emerald-green water shimmered under the late-day sun. This was one of the more crowded stops of our trip, especially compared to the quieter alpine trails, but the view was well worth it.

Lago di Carezza (Karersee), 39056 Nova Levante, South Tyrol, Italy — a stunning alpine lake famous for its emerald-green water and reflections of the Latemar mountains.

A short walk from the parking area leads to several viewpoints, each offering a slightly different perspective of the lake and the dramatic Latemar peaks reflected on its surface.

Lago di Carezza (Karersee), 39056 Nova Levante, South Tyrol, Italy.

That evening marked our last night in Santa Cristina. Dinner was at Ristorante La Tambra, a cozy alpine steakhouse that became one of our favorite meals of the trip. We started with Fonduta al Parmigiano con Uovo Poché e Tartufo, a rich Parmesan fondue topped with a poached egg and shaved truffle, followed by tender Filetto 100% Alto Adige, a perfectly cooked South Tyrolean beef tenderloin. Every dish was beautifully prepared and full of comforting alpine flavor, paired with a smooth local red wine.

Dinner at Ristorante La Tambra, Str. Dursan 20, 39047 Santa Cristina Valgardena, South Tyrol, Italy

Walking back through the quiet streets afterward, we tried to stretch out those final moments in a town we had completely fallen in love with.

Day 8: Discovering Val di Funes & Geisler Alm in the Dolomites

We left Santa Cristina early for Val di Funes, one of the most picturesque valleys in the Dolomites and home to two of the most photographed churches in Italy. The drive took about an hour and fifteen minutes, winding through alpine passes that grew more dramatic with every turn.

We parked near the Santa Maddalena Church, where there’s a small self-pay lot that fits around a dozen cars. Arriving early is essential, both for parking and for capturing photos in the soft morning light. After 9:30 a.m., the sun moves directly behind the church, making it difficult to photograph without glare or harsh shadows. If you miss that early golden light, plan to return in the late afternoon when the sun shifts and illuminates the village and peaks beautifully from the west.

Hiking up to Santa Maddalena Church (Chiesa di Santa Maddalena), Via Santa Maddalena, 39040 Funes (Villnöss), South Tyrol, Italy

*Santa Maddalena Church (Chiesa di Santa Maddalena), Via Santa Maddalena, 39040 Funes (Villnöss), South Tyrol, Italy — overlooking the Val di Funes valley with the Odle Peaks in the background.*

The Chiesetta di San Giovanni in Ranui, the small white church with its distinctive onion dome, sits quietly at the base of the valley surrounded by green meadows and towering peaks. It’s one of the most photographed landmarks in Val di Funes, and standing there in person feels even more peaceful than the photos suggest.

*Church of St. John in Ranui (Chiesetta di San Giovanni in Ranui), Ranui Street 5, 39040 Funes (Villnoss), South Tyrol, Italy*

From the church, we began our 7.29-mile (11.7 km) hike to Rifugio Odle (Geisler Alm), gaining 2,231 feet (680 m) of elevation and completing the route in about two hours and forty minutes, including breaks for photos and lunch. The trail winds gradually upward through pine forest and open meadows with sweeping views of the Odle Peaks (Geislergruppe).

*Rifugio Odle (Geisler Alm), Santa Maddalena, 39040 Funes (Villnoss), South Tyrol, Italy*

By late morning, we reached Rifugio Odle, perched perfectly beneath the jagged limestone spires. The terrace view alone was worth every step. Service was relaxed, true to alpine pace, and the food was hearty and authentically Tyrolean.

After lunch, we stayed on the terrace a little longer, taking photos and soaking in the stillness of the valley before beginning our descent. The return hike offered sweeping, ever-changing views of the Dolomites glowing in the soft afternoon light.

By late afternoon, we were back at our car and began the drive toward Cortina d’Ampezzo.

Day 9: Sunrise at Cadini di Misurina & Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Italian Dolomites

Before dawn, we drove to Rifugio Auronzo to begin the hike to Cadini di Misurina. Hiking in the dark with headlamps was both challenging and exhilarating, and watching the sunrise wash the jagged peaks in shades of pink, purple and gold was simply beautiful.

*Cadini di Misurina, near Rifugio Auronzo, Località Tre Cime di Lavaredo, 32041 Auronzo di Cadore, Belluno, Veneto, Italy*

The trail to Cadini di Misurina is a short but steep 2.1-mile (3.4 km) out-and-back route with about 750 feet (230 m) of elevation gain. As the sun rose higher, the light transformed the spires of the Cadini peaks into a glowing alpine panorama.

We weren’t the only ones captivated by the view; as a wedding ceremony and a surprise engagement were unfolding on the cliffs, a beautiful reminder of how this landscape draws people from all over the world.

Cadini di Misurina and your sign to hire me as your photographer if you want to climb a mountain before sunrise for your wedding.

After sunrise, we stopped inside Rifugio Auronzo to warm up with cappuccinos and donuts before setting out on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Loop, one of the Dolomites’ most iconic hikes. The loop is roughly 6 miles (9.7 km) long with about 1,900 feet (610 m) of total ascent, offering continuous panoramic views of the famous Three Peaks from every angle. Starting early gave us a few peaceful hours before the crowds arrived by midmorning.

*Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Three Peaks of Lavaredo), 32041 Auronzo di Cadore, Belluno, Veneto, Italy*

About halfway through, we reached Rifugio Locatelli (Rifugio A. Locatelli / S. Innerkofler), which was closed for the season but still provided a quiet spot to rest and take in the sweeping mountain views.

We continued around the loop before returning to Rifugio Auronzo for a well-earned lunch of hearty alpine fare. By the time we finished, we had logged nearly ten miles (16 km) of hiking before noon and were more than ready to head back to Cortina for dinner.

That night, we explored the town center, admired the Olympic signage for the upcoming 2026 Winter Games, and watched the light fade behind the surrounding peaks.

Cortina d’Ampezzo, Veneto, Italy — site of the 1956 Winter Olympics and future host of the 2026 Winter Games.

For dinner, we went to Il Vizietto di Cortina, a cozy and vibrant restaurant known for its creative Italian dishes and warm atmosphere. Reservations highly recommended.

Day 10: Lago di Braies Reflections & Cinque Torri Hike at Passo Giau, Dolomites

We left Cortina just after sunrise for Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee), one of the most photographed lakes in the Dolomites.

*Sunrise view from our Airbnb apartment in Cortina d’Ampezzo, Belluno Province, Veneto, Italy*

The 50-minute drive wound through quiet alpine valleys, and when we arrived around 8 a.m., the water was perfectly still, reflecting the surrounding peaks and boats like glass.

*Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee), 39030 Braies, South Tyrol, Italy — a crystal-clear alpine lake framed by pine forests and the Croda del Becco peak in the Dolomites.*

Ryan in front of Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee, South Tyrol, Italy.

A wedding was being set up on the dock, the rowboats adorned with flowers. Boat rentals were delayed, but watching the ceremony unfold on the lake was beautiful.

Wedding preparation at Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee), 39030 Braies, South Tyrol, Italy.

As we left Lago di Braies, we stopped at the little café just outside the entrance for cappuccinos and croissants to go, the perfect mid-morning treat. By then, around 9:45 a.m., the parking lot was nearly full, a good reminder to always start early at popular spots like this.

From there, we continued toward Passo Giau, where we took the chairlift up to explore Cinque Torri, a striking cluster of limestone towers that rise dramatically from the alpine landscape. The area also serves as an open-air World War I museum, with historic trenches and tunnels winding through the trails.

*Cinque Torri, Passo Giau area, 32043 Cortina d’Ampezzo, Belluno, Veneto, Italy*

We stopped at Rifugio Scoiattoli for a hearty lunch of speck, eggs, and potatoes, paired with an IPA and finished with powdered sugar doughnuts marked with tiny hearts.

Later, we returned to Cortina for our final evening in town and dinner at The Roof, a perfect end to our last full day in the Alps.

Day 11: Lago di Sorapis & A Venetian Farewell to the Italian Dolomites

Our final day in the Dolomites began before sunrise with one last alpine adventure: Lago di Sorapis, a glacial lake famous for its surreal turquoise color and dramatic mountain backdrop.

We packed up early, checked out of our Cortina Airbnb, and drove about twenty minutes to the Passo Tre Croci trailhead, arriving just after 7:30 a.m. Parking is limited and fills quickly, so arriving early is essential for both a space and a quieter experience on the trail.

The hike to Lago di Sorapis is about 6.2 miles (10 km) round trip with roughly 1,400 feet (430 m) of elevation gain. The trail begins through pine forest before opening to wide views of the rugged Dolomite peaks. The final stretch includes narrow ledges and metal cables for stability, but it’s manageable for most hikers with good footwear and a bit of caution.

Lago di Sorapis, Cortina d’Ampezzo, Veneto, Italy

By midmorning, we reached the lake, its milky turquoise surface glowing beneath steep limestone cliffs.

We sat quietly on the rocks, enjoying a snack and the view before beginning our descent. On the way back, we passed dozens of hikers heading uphill, a reminder that the early start had been worth it.

After our hike, we drove toward Venice for one final night in Italy. We spent that evening in wandering through quiet canals, crossing arched bridges, and lingering in hidden piazzas away from the crowds.

Venice, Metropolitan City of Venice, Veneto, Italy

The city felt softer in the late-day light, its reflections shifting with each passing boat. As the sun set over the lagoon, the sky turned golden and the water glowed—a perfect ending to an unforgettable journey through Austria and the Dolomites of northern Italy.

The next morning came early. We left our hotel in Venice at 3 a.m., returned our rental car, and joined the long line for check-in at the airport. From Venice, we flew to Amsterdam, then to Atlanta, and finally home to West Virginia—tired but grateful, already replaying the memories of alpine trails, quiet valleys, and that last Venetian sunset.

What the Italian Dolomites & Austrian Alps Taught Me

As we boarded our flight home, I couldn’t help but think about how this trip had unfolded, how every detour, every change in weather, and every slow morning had shaped it into something even better than we’d planned.

From misty lakes in Austria to sunlit ridgelines in the Dolomites, the journey reminded us that travel isn’t just about reaching beautiful places; it’s about the moments in between. The ones that shift your perspective in quiet, lasting ways. I left the Alps with a full heart, a camera full of memories, and a deeper appreciation for the kind of beauty that asks you to slow down and stay awhile.

Planning your own adventure through the Dolomites and Austria? My Digital Dolomites Itinerary has everything you need: lodging links, hiking routes, lift and parking details, toll and vignette info, photo tips, and money-saving advice.
➡️ Download the Digital Dolomites Itinerary to plan your trip with ease.

Hiking & Road Tripping the Italian Dolomites & Austrian Alps: An 11-Day Itinerary for Adventure Travelers